“Most individuals, after they get to 20 years, do a celebration—a better of—however I’m the kind of character who appears to be like to push on, to take a step ahead.” So mentioned Neil Barrett after this 20th anniversary present that completely wasn’t.
As a substitute of getting all misty-eyed and wrapped up with himself, Barrett celebrated this anniversary by exploring a theme—punk—that he has by no means acquired into earlier than. Tim Blanks (an elephant by no means forgets) instantly reminded Barrett that he had as soon as explored “Amish Punk”: “Wow, you get 10 factors for remembering that,” mentioned Barrett.
This assortment was extra postcolonial punk than the rest. As Barrett rightly noticed, the unique pressure of this all-influencing youth tradition was a mash-up of biker, college uniform, and army, which first expressed itself in Britain within the late 1970s. Tonight the designer internationalized the idea by mixing printed neon signage from London’s Soho red-light district and Tokyo’s Shinjuku. Eco-fur collars and hoods on ostensibly traditional topcoats—so fantastically lower—and overprint tiger stripes on verify separates additional emphasised the conflict he was getting at.
In development, this assortment felt too clean-cut—method too luxurious—to be even vaguely punk. However Neil Barrett is punk—simply with private coach and a share portfolio.